Homer Rogue Taverna brings gritty, raw, Athenian fare to Sydney

A gritty, raw Athenian eatery from a pair of hospitality icons opens in The Shire today, with Homer Rogue Taverna serving up good times, charcoal-roasted souvla, family recipes and a walk-up, custom wine fridge stocked with bottles made from some of the world’s oldest grape varietals.

Brothers Harry and Mario Kapoulas have put their heritage front and centre with their new 100-seat venue, which is located on the same block as their famed Ham cafe.

In contrast to the elevated Greek restaurants that have taken Sydney by storm, Homer delivers a casual experience akin to the buzzy, laidback tavernas that line the streets of Athens.

Mid-20th century chairs and sconces - prominent fixtures of those eateries - tastefully complement the modern, industrial fitout, which features a popcorn ceiling, terrazzo flooring, chicken wire frosted glass, exposed brick of the original build and a graffitied wall.

A rocaro granite benchtop separating the dining area from the expansive open-plan, stainless steel kitchen doubles as a chef’s table, while passersby and guests seated outside can also watch on through the floor-to-ceiling glass windows.

Harry Kapoulas says Homer has been designed to look like it has been around forever, but with a modern twist, which is how the word rogue made its way into the name.

“It’s a nod to our past and our present, with a little bit of boundary pushing thrown in,” he says.

“Homer isn’t your average Sydney restaurant. It’s a place where you’re welcome whether you’re still in your thongs after a day at the beach, enjoying a family meal or celebrating a special occasion.

“At its heart it’s about people coming together for a good time, good food and good drinks, with an atmosphere that reflects that.”

The Kapoulas’ have thrown out the rule book when it comes to Homer’s menu, too.

Starters and mains are nowhere to be found, with chef James Watson (ex-Peacock Trattoria) and head chef Kirri Mouat (ex-Icebergs, Ham) instead creating a broad selection of small plates divided into sections, from breads and pickles to dips, small classics, rotisserie, stews, sides, a family dish and dessert, all of which will come out in no particular order, as they’re cooked.

Watson says the affordable menu has been created using traditional Greek flavours and recipes, including those from the Kapoulas family, but each dish is prepared and presented in a way that’s unique to Homer.

“There’s more to Greek food than what comes from the islands dotted throughout the Mediterranean,” he says.

“Athens is a melting pot of flavours, with a focus on simple dishes done well.

“Harry and Mario like doing things that are a little bit different, so we’ve upped the ante by putting our own spin on everything, from cult favourites to little-known family recipes, and we’re excited for Sydneysiders to try it.”

Feast on spanakopita, loukaniko (Greek sausage) and halloumi, and saganaki and prawn flatbreads - handmade daily and cooked in the custom woodfired oven - or the koulouri sesame (Greek bagel) paired with tirokafteri (spicy cheese dip), taramas (fish roe) or fava.

The souvla will change regularly, but for now features classic chicken, pork and a vegetarian option.

The small classics include Homer’s signature gyros, mouth-watering Manouri cheese baked in kataifi (a stringy Greek pastry) and honey, a grilled souvlaki octopus recipe from Kapoulas’ grandparents and a playful take on stifado, a traditional stew that’s wrapped in a chicken skin emulsion to resemble a smoking cigar.

There are also larger dishes in the form of Harry and Mario's mum's moussaka and a modern take on spanakorizo, which comes served with a generous portion of white fish.

It’s not just the food that will have people up and about, with customers quite literally encouraged to get out of their seats to select their wine of choice from the three-metre-tall, custom-built wine fridge.

Greek and Australian drops take centre stage, including an old vine savatiano, one of the world’s oldest known grapes.

There are 500ml carafes of white and red wine in addition to the 75 bottles of wine on the list, 16 of which are available by the glass, which Harry Kapoulas says he hopes will encourage people to try something new.

“Greeks have been making wine for thousands of years and have a plethora of varietals that people here may never have heard of,” he says.

“We’re hoping to change that.”

Not to be outdone is the punchy cocktail and spirits menu, which stars $10 martini mouthfuls, ouzo, an Athenian Punch made with strawberry, rum and citrus, and a See Through Pornstar that comes topped with champagne foam.

All are prepared on the open-plan bar that runs along the back wall, giving diners a front row seat to the action as their drinks are made.

In a nod to the Greek poet - and his epic literature, as it was known - the Kapoulas’ have also teamed up with Young Henrys to make Homer’s Epic Lager, which is available exclusively at the taverna.

Homer Rogue Taverna is open from 5pm until late, Tuesday to Thursday, and from 11.30am until late, Friday to Sunday.

Bookings are recommended, with walk-ins also available.

Visit homerroguetaverna.com.au for more information.